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Showing posts with label stitching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stitching. Show all posts

Sunday, January 30, 2011

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA-- CROSS STITCHED SNOWFLAKE BREADCOVER


Today’s craft project should probably be filed under, “If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em.” I’ve shoveled enough snow since the day after Christmas to last me the rest of my life. Here in New Jersey, back on January 26th, we broke the record for the most snow ever in the month of January since they began keeping records. And we’ve already had more than four times the amount of snow we normally get for an entire winter!

The only time I like snow is when it’s not cold and wet -- like as a crafting motif. So today I bring you a cross stitched Snowflake Breadcover. The sample in the photo was stitched on a white 14-ct. Charles Craft Royal Classic Breadcover using DMC 3041 antique violet med., 826 blue med., and 3810 turquoise dk. for the snowflakes.

If you can’t find a pre-finished breadcover, you can use an 18” x 18” square of any 14-ct. cross stitch fabric that drapes nicely. Or use a 28-ct. fabric such as Charles Craft Monaco and work over two threads. Machine stitch ¼” around the fabric, then pull the threads to fringe. Begin stitching ¾” from side and bottom edges.

Print out the cross stitch chart and enlarge on a copy machine.

You can also substitute colors of your choice for the snowflakes. Reds, greens, and golds will work well for Christmas, but the colors I chose will enable you to use the breadcover throughout the winter.

Happy stitching!


Monday, January 17, 2011

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA-- MORE SEWING TIPS

Today I’m bringing you more sewing tips.

*Have you ever wished you had a cutting table like the ones in the fabric stores -- the kind with a “V” down the center for inserting your scissors to make a straight cut? If you have a kitchen or dining room table that has leaves, you have such a table! Simply open the table slightly, lay your fabric even with the edge of the table, and cut along the gap.


*Keep organized by storing scraps of fabric, ribbon, lace, and notions in individual see-through plastic storage containers. Finding a 6” piece of pink ribbon for a bow is much easier when its’ not hiding amidst zippers and bias tape.



*When buying fabric, ask to have the cardboard bolt if you’ve bought the end of the fabric. Wrap your fabrics around these bolts to store them stacked on a shelf.

*Keep spools of thread and bobbins of matching colors together by threading them through a chenille stem and twisting the ends together.

*Save those slivers of soap from the shower. They’re great for marking dark fabrics. Remove the marking by rubbing with a used dryer sheet.

*If you have a favorite tissue paper pattern you know you’ll be using many times, use fusible web to fuse the pieces to unbleached muslin for a long-lasting pattern.

Monday, January 10, 2011

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA--DUPLICATE STITCH SNOWMAN SWEATER


Duplicate stitch is such an easy technique and is a great way to embellish a store bought sweater. Learn how with this snowman design. -- AP

Materials
stockinette stitch pullover crew neck sweater in a dark color (purple used for model); DMC 6-strand embroidery floss: white, 307 lemon, 702 kelly green, 894 carnation very lt., 946 burnt orange red, 996 electric blue med.; #22 tapestry needle; washable fabric glue; two 1/2” diameter black buttons; three 1/2” diameter jingle bells; 1” diameter bright yellow pompom; sewing thread

NOTE: This model was stitched on a sweater with a gauge of 5 stitches and 7 rows to the inch. A sweater with more stitches per inch will result in a small finished design. A sweater with less stitches per inch will produce a larger finished design. Model shown is approximately 11-1/4” high x 10-1/4” wide.

Basic Duplicate Stitch Instructions:
Each square on the graph represents a “V” shaped duplicate stitch. The duplicate stitch is made by covering the “V” stitch of the stockinette stitch sweater. This is done by bringing the needle up from the back at the point of the “V” (fig. 1). Next, Insert the needle through the upper right point of the “V” and out through the upper left point of the “V” (fig. 2). Bring the needle back down through the base of the “V” (fig. 3). Begin the next stitch by bringing the needle up at the base of the “V” to the left of the just completed stitch (fig. 4). Work in horizontal rows wherever possible.

For best coverage, separate the strands of floss before threading the needle. The model was stitched using 8 strands of floss. Sweaters with different gauges will require more or less strands. Work a test section to determine the number of strands needed for best coverage.

1. Measure the sweater to find the center. Mark with safety pin.

2. Following the chart and Color Key, stitch the design centered left to right on the sweater and beginning 3” below the neck seam.

3. Sew buttons to snowman where indicated by black dots for eyes. Sew jingle bells where indicated by gold dots. Glue pompom to top of hat.

COLOR KEY
o  white
.  307 lemon
-  702 kelly green
+  894 carnation very lt.
/  946 burnt orange med.
x  996 electric blue med.

If you decide to give duplicate stitch a try, let us know how you like it. -- AP

Monday, January 3, 2011

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA--TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Every go into a panic when you need to buy something, but the choices are so confusing that you stand in front of the shelf, unable to make a choice? Which brand of cereal is best for your kids? Which shoes go better with that outfit? What color paint will look best on the living room walls? Does this brand work better than that brand? 

It's enough to drive anyone to the brink of a panic attack! And guess what? Whether it's cereal or wall paint, we're generally bombarded with too many choices. Often it's a simple matter of taste, but more often than not, other factors come into play. Educating yourself about products helps you make better choices, right? Well, the same thing is true with craft supplies and tools.

Using the proper tools is essential in any craft. Needles are no exception. No matter what the thread or material, there’s a needle to suit the job. However, sometimes the choice can be overwhelming. Many stitchers are confused as to which needle to use for which kind of stitching project. There’s a specially designed needle for each specific type of sewing and needlecraft, and it’s important to use the right needle to obtain the best results.

To confuse matters further, many types of needles also come in a selection of sizes. When dealing with size, a good rule of thumb is to choose a needle that does not open the weave of the fabric any more than necessary as the needle passes through it. A needle that is too large will create gaps in your fabric as you work, and a needle that is too small will cause your thread, floss, or yarn to fray as you stitch. This is true whether you’re stitching by hand or machine. Always test your needle, thread, and fabric combination before beginning a project.

Here’s a handy guide that should help in selecting the appropriate needle for your work:

CREWEL/EMBROIDERY NEEDLES
Crewel needles, also known as embroidery needles, are medium-length needles with sharp points for piercing closely woven fabrics. They have long oval eyes for easy threading of multiple strands of yarn or floss. Use these needles for most embroidery projects, including cutwork, pulled thread, stumpwork, candlewicking, and smocking.

CHENILLES
Chenilles are similar to crewel or embroidery needles but are larger in size for stitching with heavier threads and fabrics. They work well when using tapestry wools or multiple plies of Persian wool. Chenilles are also ideal for fastening the ends of couched threads.

TAPESTY NEEDLES
Tapestry needles are heavy needles with blunt ends and large oval eyes. They're used when stitching on evenweave fabrics when you want the needle to slip between the threads of the fabric, rather than piercing the threads. This makes them ideal for counted cross stitch, Hardanger embroidery, blackwork, shadow appliqué, and trapunto. They are also used for stitching on canvas for needlepoint and Bargello and for plastic canvas.

BEADING NEEDLES
Beading needles are very thin needles with small eyes that allow the bead to slide down the needle onto the thread. Use them for doing counted bead embroidery or other beading projects.

SCULPTURE NEEDLES
Sculpture needles are very long needles used for making soft sculpture dolls and stuffed animals. Their length enables you to stitch through stuffed sections.

SHARPS
Sharps are medium-length needles with round eyes and sharp points. They’re used for hand sewing.

MILLINERS
Milliners are similar to sharps, except longer. These needles are useful for basting as well as for pleating and smocking.

BETWEENS
Betweens, also known as quilting needles, are short needles with small round eyes and sharp points. They’re ideal for making short, even quilting stitches.

DARNERS
Darners are long, large-eyed sharp needles used primarily for mending. They’re also ideal for dollmaking.

Do you have a favorite tool you can’t be without? Let’s hear from you. Post a comment this week to be entered in the drawing for a book from our Book Club Friday guest author. -- AP

Monday, December 13, 2010

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA-- RIBBON STITCHED ORNAMENTS




Christmas is almost here. Are you prepared, or did you forget a gift or two you need to give? Here are three very quick-to-stitch cross stitched Christmas ornaments that are stitched with 1/8” ribbon instead of embroidery floss. However, if you’d rather use embroidery floss, use 6 strands for optimum coverage.


Materials (makes one of each design):
three 6” x 6” pieces white Monk’s Cloth
#20 tapestry needle
1/16” double-faced satin ribbon (red, 3-1/4 yds,; green, 2-1/4 yds.; lt. blue, 2-3/4 yds.; brown, 1/2 yd.)
iron-on interfacing
circle compass
coffee can plastic lid
three 6” x 6” pieces fabric for backing
1 yd. 1” wide white gathered lace
small amount fiberfill
basic sewing supplies


Directions:
Cross stitch each design centered on a piece of the Monk’s Cloth. Make sure ribbon lays flat and doesn’t twist while stitching. When stitching is complete, apply iron-on interfacing to wrong side of each ornament.

Draw a 5” diameter circle on the plastic lid. Cut out. Center the circle over each ornament and trace onto fabric. Cut out circles. Cut out 3 additional circles from backing fabric.

With right sides together and raw edges even, sew lace around the perimeter of each ornament, beginning at the center bottom and turning under the beginning raw edge. Overlap lace 1/2”.

Cut a 9” length of red ribbon for the poinsettia, green for the Christmas tree, and lt. blue for the snowflake. Fold each in half. Baste to top center of ornament, raw edges together.

With right sides together and using 1/4” seam allowance, sew ornament to backing fabric, leaving opening for turning. Turn and stuff lightly with fiberfill. Slipstitch openings closed.



Monday, August 16, 2010

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA--PLASTIC CANVAS PICTURE FRAME MAGNET



You’re stuck in the house on a rainy day with children or grandchildren climbing the walls because they have nothing to do. Why not teach them to stitch? Here’s a very easy beginner plastic canvas project that children as young as 6 years old will have no trouble mastering, and you probably have materials left over from other project lying around the house that you’ll be able to use. For very young children, an adult should cut out the plastic canvas. You may also want to let the child practice stitching on a scrap of plastic canvas before beginning the project. -- AP

PLASTIC CANVAS PICTURE FRAME MAGNET

Materials: 25 bars x 25 bars of 7-hole clear plastic canvas; permanent ink marker; pink, blue, and white worsted weight yarn or your choice of any three colors; #16 tapestry needle; 3-3/4” x 3-3/4” cardboard; double-sided, acid-free tape; 1/2-yd. 3/4” wide white gathered eyelet; 3” magnetic strip; 2” x 2” photo; scissors; tacky glue.

1. (Note: for very young children, adult should cut out the plastic canvas.) Following the chart and using the marker, draw the inside line onto the plastic canvas. Cut out the inside square, cutting up to but not into the drawn line. Remove the marker with a dry tissue.

2. Following the chart, stitch the design in Continental stitch.

3. Fill in the uncharted areas of the background with white yarn.

4. Overcast the interior and exterior edges in white yarn.

5. Using double-sided the tape, secure the photo to the center of the cardboard.

6. Glue the eyelet to the back edge of the stitched frame, beginning at bottom center and overlapping ends. (Hint: Use spring-type clothespins to hold eyelet in place while drying.)

7. Glue the cardboard to the back of the stitching with the photo showing through the cut-out square.

8. Attach the magnet strip to the back of the cardboard.

How do you keep your kids or grandkids occupied on rainy days? Let’s hear from you. Post a comment to be eligible for a free book this week from our Book Club Friday guest author. -- AP

Monday, June 21, 2010

CRAFTS WITH ANASTASIA--CROSS STITCH TIPS

Ever wonder why I chose a background of embroidery floss for the Killer Crafts & Crafty Killers blog?  Simple.  I love to cross stitch!  I wish I had time to cross stitch more often, but it’s kind of hard to squeeze in a few relaxing hours of stitching when there always seems to be something else that needs doing -- like figuring out how to pay off dead hubby’s loan shark.  Someday I may be able to get back to my favorite pastime and wile away the hours with a piece of linen, a tapestry needle, and all those gorgeous DMC floss colors.  In the meantime, I’ve got some cross stitching tips to share with those of you who do manage to squeeze in some cross stitching time from time to time. -- AP  

To prevent linen, Aida cloth, and evenweave from creasing when not working on a project, roll the fabric in acid free tissue paper and place it inside a cardboard tube.  Use empty tubes from toilet tissue for small projects and plastic wrap or foil for larger projects.

If you prefer to use a hoop when you stitch, always remove your stitching from the hoop when not working on it.  Plastic hoops are preferable to wooden or metal ones which may stain your fabric.  If you prefer to use wood or metal, prevent staining by sandwiching your fabric between two sheets of muslin before inserting into the hoop.  Carefully cut out the muslin to 1” from hoop.

If you’re a mom, chances are you’re also the family chauffeur.  Ever think of keeping a project in the glove compartment of your car?  Pull it out to work on while you’re waiting to pick up the kids from school or soccer.  No kids?  Bring your project along when you have a doctor’s appointment.  You’ll enjoy stitching a lot more than leafing through those outdated magazines in the waiting room.

Here are two tips for take-along projects.  Instead of balancing a chart on your lap, stitch half of each  cross stitch throughout the project when you can do so at home.  Complete the stitches whenever you have a few minutes of “wait” time.  Another tip is to stitch the perimeter of large areas of solid color.  Fill in the areas during those “wait” times.

Look for more cross stitch and other crafting tips in future columns.  Meanwhile, what are some of your favorite stitching tips? Anyone who posts a comment this week is entered into the drawing for a free book from our Book Club Friday guest author. -- AP