Kapampangan Eats: A Glimpse Behind the History of San
Nicolas Cookies
Food, like a loving touch or a glimpse of divine power, has
that ability to comfort. -Normal Kolpas
On the tenth of
September every year, parishes in Pampanga, Philippines have a unique bread tradition in
honor of San Nicholas de Tolentino--one of the traditions passed by the
Spaniards to the Filipinos. Saint Nicholas is described as the Super Saint of
the Augustinian order according to locals. Aside from being the traditional
patron of forty-six Philippine towns, he was known for the legend of
Guadalupe's San Nicholas. Otherwise known as the Pan de San Nicholas, this
sacramental bread (or more appropriately a biscuit), this Kapampangan delicacy
found its roots upon the miraculous appearance of the shrikes (locally known as
tarat) during the patron saint's feast day, hence the eponymous name "Pan
de San Nicholas."
The distribution and
blessing of bread were distinctive features of the San Nicholas feast, which
still continues today. It was said that the bread was as miraculous as the patron
saint's charities. It was stated that he had envisioned Virgin Mary while he
was sick. The Virgin mother then advised him to eat bread that has been dipped
in water--an advice he took that caused his timely recovery. Because of this,
the tradition was born, and his followers continued the practice of portioning
and blessing bread on his feast day.
But San Nicolas
cookies are eaten not only on his feast day but any day of the year. In
Pampanga, these perfectly molded cookies are famously crafted by Lilian
Borromeo of Mexico, Pampanga. She has preserved and continued the tradition of
making the succulent cookies from the recipe she inherited from generations
before her. Lilian Borromeo's cookies are manually molded into heirloom wooden
templates handed down to her, which make them truly unique.
It is said that eating
Pan de San Nicholas has curative and restorative derivatives, but today, that
may be attributed to a placebo effect. If you want to try your hand at making
this famous Kapampangan biscuit, you can head over to Lilian Borromeo's
kitchen, famously known as Kusina ni Atching Lilian. You will be granted a
cooking demo by the chef, Atching Lilian herself and be rewarded with a
souvenir for your efforts.
However, if you are
unable to travel to The Philippines, you can try your hand at making the
cookies at home:
Pan de San Nicholas Cookies
Ingredients:
1-1/2 cups rice flour
( Mochiko brand, from Asian markets)
1/2 cup cornstarch
2 cups cake
flour
1 T. baking
powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup + 2 T. granulated
sugar
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup canned coconut
milk
1/2 cup unsalted
butter or margarine, room temperature
1 tsp. fresh lemon
zest
1/2 cup vegetable
oil
In a large bowl,
combine the cornstarch, baking powder, salt, sugar, egg yolks, coconut milk,
softened butter, lemon zest, and oil. Blend the mixture well with a
wooden spoon. Slowly introduce the cake flour and rice flour into the
mixture until well blended.
Knead the dough until it’s
thick and smooth.
Place the dough into
an airtight container and freeze for two to four hours, or even overnight.
Remove dough and thaw
at room temperature for eight to ten minutes.
Preheat the oven to
325 degrees Fahrenheit. Meanwhile, grease the carved surface of the mold
with baking spray, making sure you have covered the crevices and corners.
Place a piece of the
dough over the carved portion of the mold until completely covered. Place
a piece of parchment over the dough and, using a rolling pin, flatten the dough
so it gets embedded into the mold’s design.
Place a round or oval
cookie cutter over the mold and use it to cut the dough into the appropriate
shape. Transfer the molded dough onto a baking sheet lined with parchment
paper.
Bake the cookies for
10 to 12 minutes or until lightly-brown.
Transfer the cookies
to a cooling rack and allow to cool for 30 to 40 minutes. Once cooled,
wrap in white cellophane wrappers and store in an airtight glass or plastic
jar.
1 comment:
There's snow outside my window and more to come today. These cookies are the perfect treat! Thanks for the recipe!!
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